Wiltshire

Not to be confused with Wilshire or Wilshere.

This article is about the county in England. For other uses, see Wiltshire (disambiguation).

Wiltshire
Ceremonial county
Marlborough Downs, Salisbury Cathedral, and a view of Swindon
Wiltshire within England
Coordinates: 51.3°N 01.9°W / 51.3; -01.9
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Constituent country	England
Region	South West
Established	Ancient
Time zone	UTC+0 (GMT)
• Summer (DST)	UTC+1 (BST)
UK Parliament	List of MPs
Police	Wiltshire Police
Ceremonial county
Lord Lieutenant	Sarah Troughton
Area	3,485 km2 (1,346 sq mi)
• Rank	14th of 48
Population  (2022)	751,542
• Rank	34th of 48
Density	216/km2 (560/sq mi)
Unitary authorities
Councils	Wiltshire Council Swindon Borough Council
Districts
Districts of Wiltshire   Unitary
Districts	Wiltshire Swindon

Wiltshire (/ˈwɪlt.ʃər, -ʃɪr/; abbreviated to Wilts) is a ceremonial county in South West England. It borders Gloucestershire to the north, Oxfordshire to the north-east, Berkshire to the east, Hampshire to the south-east, Dorset to the south, and Somerset to the west. The largest settlement is Swindon, and Trowbridge is the county town.

The county has an area of 3,485 km² (1,346 square miles) and a population of 720,060. The county is mostly rural, and the centre and south-west are sparsely populated. After Swindon (183,638), the largest settlements are the city of Salisbury (41,820) and the towns of Chippenham (37,548) and Trowbridge (37,169). For local government purposes the county comprises two unitary authority areas, Swindon and Wiltshire.

Undulating chalk downlands characterize much of the county. In the east are Marlborough Downs, which contain Savernake Forest. To the south is the Vale of Pewsey, which separates the downs from Salisbury Plain in the centre of the county. The south-west is also downland, and contains the West Wiltshire Downs, the Vale of Wardour to their south, and part of Cranborne Chase in the far south of the county. The north-west of Wiltshire is part of the Cotswolds, a limestone area. The county's two major rivers are both called the Avon; the northern Avon enters the county in the north-west and flows in a south-westerly direction before leaving it near Bradford-on-Avon, and the southern Avon rises on Salisbury Plain and flows through Salisbury, then into Hampshire. The far south-east contains part of the New Forest. Much of the county is protected: the Marlborough Downs; West Wiltshire Downs, Vale of Wardour, and Cranbourne Chase; and the Cotswolds are all part of designated national landscapes, and the New Forest is a national park.

Salisbury Plain is noted for the Stonehenge and Avebury stone circles, which together are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and other ancient landmarks. Much of the plain is a training area for the British Army. The city of Salisbury is notable for its medieval cathedral. Large country houses open to the public include Longleat, where there is also a safari park, and the National Trust's Stourhead.

Toponymy

The county, in the 9th century written as Wiltunscir, is named after the former county town of Wilton.

History

Main article: History of Wiltshire

Stonehenge

Wiltshire is notable for its pre-Roman archaeology. The Mesolithic, Neolithic and Bronze Age people that occupied southern Britain built settlements on the hills and downland that cover Wiltshire. Stonehenge and Avebury are perhaps the most famous Neolithic sites in the UK.

In the 6th and 7th centuries Wiltshire was at the western edge of Saxon Britain, as Cranborne Chase and the Somerset Levels prevented the advance to the west. The Battle of Bedwyn was fought in 675 between Escuin, a West Saxon nobleman who had seized the throne of Queen Saxburga, and King Wulfhere of Mercia. In 878 the Danes invaded the county. Following the Norman Conquest in 1066, large areas of the country came into the possession of the crown and the church.

At the time of the Domesday Survey, the industry of Wiltshire was largely agricultural; 390 mills are mentioned, and vineyards at Tollard and Lacock. In the succeeding centuries sheep-farming was vigorously pursued, and the Cistercian monastery of Stanley exported wool to the Florentine and Flemish markets in the 13th and 14th centuries.

Hand-drawn map of Wiltshire, 1576, by Christopher Saxton

In the 17th century, English Civil War Wiltshire was largely Parliamentarian. The Battle of Roundway Down, a Royalist victory, was fought near Devizes.

In 1794, it was decided at a meeting at the Bear Inn in Devizes to raise a body of ten independent troops of Yeomanry for the county of Wiltshire, which formed the basis for what would become the Royal Wiltshire Yeomanry, who served with distinction both at home and abroad, during the Boer War, World War I and World War II. The Royal Wiltshire Yeomanry lives on as Y (RWY) Squadron, based in Swindon, and B (RWY) Squadron, based in Salisbury, of the Royal Wessex Yeomanry.

Around 1800, the Kennet and Avon Canal was built through Wiltshire, providing a route for transporting cargoes from Bristol to London until the development of the Great Western Railway.

Information on the 261 civil parishes of Wiltshire is available at Wiltshire Council's Wiltshire Community History website which has maps, demographic data, historic and modern pictures and short histories.

The local nickname for Wiltshire natives is "Moonrakers". This originated from a story of smugglers who managed to foil the local Excise men by hiding their alcohol, possibly French brandy in barrels or kegs, in a village pond. When confronted by the excise men they raked the surface to conceal the submerged contraband with ripples, and claimed that they were trying to rake in a large round cheese visible in the pond, really a reflection of the full moon. The officials took them for simple yokels or mad and left them alone, allowing them to continue with their illegal activities. Many villages claim the tale for their own village pond, but the story is most commonly linked with The Crammer in Devizes.

Geology, landscape and ecology

See also: List of hills of Wiltshire and List of rivers of Wiltshire

Cherhill White Horse, east of Calne

Two-thirds of Wiltshire, a mostly rural county, lies on chalk, a kind of soft, white, porous limestone that is resistant to erosion, giving it a high chalk downland landscape. This chalk is part of a system of chalk downlands throughout eastern and southern England formed by the rocks of the Chalk Group and stretching from the Dorset Downs in the west to Dover in the east. The largest area of chalk in Wiltshire is Salisbury Plain, which is used mainly for arable agriculture and by the British Army as training ranges. The highest point in the county is the Tan Hill–Milk Hill ridge in the Pewsey Vale, just to the north of Salisbury Plain, at 295 m (968 ft) above sea level.

The chalk uplands run north-east into West Berkshire in the Marlborough Downs ridge, and south-west into Dorset as Cranborne Chase. Cranborne Chase, which straddles the border, has, like Salisbury Plain, yielded much Stone Age and Bronze Age archaeology. The Marlborough Downs are part of the North Wessex Downs AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), a 1,730 km² (670-square-mile) conservation area.

In the north-west of the county, on the border with South Gloucestershire and Bath and North East Somerset, the underlying rock is the resistant oolite limestone of the Cotswolds. Part of the Cotswolds AONB is also in Wiltshire, in the county's north-western corner.

Between the areas of chalk and limestone downland are clay valleys and vales. The largest of these vales is the Avon Vale. The Avon cuts diagonally through the north of the county, flowing through Bradford-on-Avon and into Bath and Bristol. The Vale of Pewsey has been cut through the chalk into Greensand and Oxford Clay in the centre of the county. In the south west of the county is the Vale of Wardour. The south-east of the county lies on the sandy soils of the northernmost area of the New Forest.

Chalk is a porous rock, so the chalk hills have little surface water. The main settlements in the county are therefore situated at wet points. Notably, Salisbury is situated between the chalk of Salisbury Plain and marshy flood plains.

Green belt

Main article: Avon Green Belt

The county has a green belt mainly along its western fringes as a part of the extensive Avon Green Belt. It reaches as far as the outskirts of Rudloe/Corsham and Trowbridge, preventing urban sprawl particularly from the latter in the direction of Bradford-on-Avon, and affording further protection to surrounding villages and towns from Bath in Somerset.

Climate

Along with the rest of South West England, Wiltshire has a temperate climate which is generally wetter and milder than counties further east. The annual mean temperature is approximately 10 °C (50.0 °F). Although there is a marked maritime influence, this is generally rather less pronounced than it is for other south-western counties, which are closer to the sea. July and August are the warmest months with mean daily maxima of approximately 22 °C (71.6 °F). In winter mean minimum temperatures of 1 °C (33.8 °F) or 2 °C (35.6 °F) are usual and air frost is frequent. In the summer the Azores high pressure affects south-west England; however, convective cloud sometimes forms inland, reducing the number of hours of sunshine. Annual sunshine rates are slightly less than the regional average of 1,600 hours.

In December 1998, there were 20 days without sun recorded at Yeovilton (Somerset). Most of the rainfall in the south-west is caused by Atlantic depressions or by convection, though a proportion is caused orographically (uplift over hills). Autumn and winter are rainiest, caused by Atlantic depressions, which are then most active. Even so, any month can be the wettest or driest in a given year but the wettest is much more likely to be Oct-Mar, and the driest Apr-Sept. In summer, a greater proportion of the rainfall is caused by sun heating the ground leading to convection and to showers and thunderstorms. It is often the northern half of the county that sees most of the showers with south-westerly winds in summer, whereas in the south of the county, the proximity of a relatively cold English Channel often inhibits showers. In autumn and winter, however, the sea is often relatively warm, compared with the air passing over it and can often lead to a higher rainfall in the south of the county (e.g. Salisbury recorded over 200mm of rain in Nov 2009 and January 2014). Average rainfall for the county is around 800 mm (31 in), drier parts averaging 700mm (28ins)and the wettest 900mm (around 35ins). About 8–15 days of snowfall is typical. November to March have the highest mean wind speeds, and June to August have the lightest winds. The predominant wind direction is from the south-west.

Economy

Main article: Economy of Wiltshire

This is a chart of trend of regional gross value added (GVA) of Wiltshire at current basic prices with figures in millions of British Pounds Sterling.

Year	Regional gross value added	Agriculture	Industry	Services
1995	4,354	217	1,393	2,743
2000	5,362	148	1,566	3,647
2003	6,463	164	1,548	4,751

The Wiltshire economy benefits from the "M4 corridor effect", which attracts business, and the attractiveness of its countryside, towns and villages. The northern part of the county is richer than the southern part, particularly since Swindon is home to national and international corporations such as Intel, Motorola, Patheon, Catalent (formerly known as Cardinal Health), Becton-Dickinson, WHSmith, Early Learning Centre and Nationwide, with Dyson located in nearby Malmesbury. Wiltshire's employment structure is distinctive in having a significantly higher number of people in various forms of manufacturing (especially electrical equipment and apparatus, food products, and beverages, furniture, rubber, pharmaceuticals, and plastic goods) than the national average.

In addition, there is higher-than-average employment in public administration and defence, due to the military establishments around the county, particularly around Amesbury and Corsham. There are sizeable British Army barracks at Tidworth, Bulford and Warminster, and the Royal School of Artillery is at Larkhill. Further north, RAF Lyneham was home to the RAF's Hercules C130 fleet until 2011; the MoD Lyneham site is now a centre for Army technical training. Wiltshire is also distinctive for the high proportion of its working-age population who are economically active (86.6% in 1999–2000) and its low unemployment rates. The gross domestic product (GDP) level in Wiltshire did not reach the UK average in 1998, and was only marginally above the rate for South West England.

Education

See also: List of schools in Wiltshire

Marlborough College: court and chapel

Wiltshire has 30 county secondary schools, publicly funded, of which the largest is Warminster Kingdown, and eleven independent secondaries, including Marlborough College, St Mary's Calne, Dauntsey's near Devizes, and Warminster School. The county schools are nearly all comprehensives, with the older pattern of education surviving only in Salisbury, which has two grammar schools (South Wilts Grammar School and Bishop Wordsworth's School) and three non-selective schools.

There are four further education colleges, which also provide some higher education: New College (Swindon); Wiltshire College (Chippenham, Trowbridge and Salisbury); Salisbury Sixth Form College; and Swindon College. Wiltshire is also home to a University Technical College, UTC Swindon, specialising in engineering. A second UTC, South Wiltshire UTC, was based in Salisbury but closed in August 2020.

Wiltshire is one of the few remaining English counties without a university or university college; the closest university to the county town of Trowbridge is the University of Bath. However, Bath Spa University has a centre at Corsham Court in Corsham, and Oxford Brookes University maintains a minor campus in Swindon (almost 50 km from Oxford). Swindon is the UK's second largest centre of population (after Milton Keynes) without its own university.

Service Children's Education has its headquarters in Trenchard Lines in Upavon, Wiltshire.

Demographics

Wiltshire population pyramid

The county registered a population of 680,137 in the 2011 Census. Wiltshire (outside Swindon) has a low population density of 1.4 persons per hectare, when compared against 4.1 for England as a whole.

	Wiltshire	Swindon	Total
Usual resident population	470,981	209,156	680,137
Age 65 or over	18.1%	13.7%	16.8%
Density (persons per hectare)	1.4	9.1	2.0
Households	194,194	88,360	282,554

Historical population of Wiltshire county:

1801	1851	1901	1951	2001
185,107	254,221	271,394	386,692	613,024

Politics and administration

Europe

At the 2016 European Union membership referendum, Wiltshire voted in favour of Brexit.

Westminster Parliamentary

Main article: List of parliamentary constituencies in Wiltshire

Wiltshire is represented by eight Parliamentary constituencies. Seven are entirely within the county, while the South Cotswolds constituency extends into southern parts of Gloucestershire.

At the 2024 general election, the Conservatives won three seats (East Wiltshire, Salisbury, and South West Wiltshire); Labour two (Swindon North and Swindon South); and the Liberal Democrats three (Chippenham, Melksham and Devizes, and South Cotswolds).

Councils

Main articles: Wiltshire Council, Wiltshire Council elections, Swindon Borough Council, and Swindon Borough Council elections

The coat of arms of Wiltshire County Council

The ceremonial county of Wiltshire consists of two unitary authority areas, Wiltshire and Swindon, governed respectively by Wiltshire Council and Swindon Borough Council. As a result of elections held in 2021, Wiltshire Council comprises 61 Conservatives, 27 Liberal Democrats, seven Independents and three Labour members. Swindon Borough Council has 34 Conservative councillors and 23 Labour members.

Until the 2009 structural changes to local government, Wiltshire (apart from Swindon) was a two-level county, divided into four local government districts – Kennet, North Wiltshire, Salisbury and West Wiltshire – which existed alongside Wiltshire County Council, covering the same area and carrying out more strategic tasks, such as education and county roads. However, on 1 April 2009 these five local authorities were merged into a single unitary authority called Wiltshire Council. With the abolition of the District of Salisbury, a new Salisbury City Council was created at the same time to carry out several citywide functions and to hold the city's charter.

Sport

The County Ground, Swindon is the home of Swindon Town, the only football league club in Wiltshire.

The county is represented in the Football League by Swindon Town, who play at the County Ground stadium near Swindon town centre. They joined the Football League on the creation of the Third Division in 1920, and have remained in the league ever since. Their most notable achievements include winning the Football League Cup in 1969 and the Anglo-Italian Cup in 1970, two successive promotions in 1986 and 1987 (taking them from the Fourth Division to the Second), promotion to the Premier League as Division One play-off winners in 1993 (as inaugural members), the Division Two title in 1996, and their promotion to League One in 2007 after finishing third in League Two.

Chippenham Town is the area's highest-ranked non-league football club; they currently play in the National League South after winning the Southern Premier League in 2016/17, with a league record points tally of 103. After Salisbury City went into liquidation in 2014, a new club, Salisbury, was formed in 2015 and will play in the National League South for the 24/25 season.

Wiltshire County Cricket Club play in the Minor Counties league.

Swindon Robins Speedway team, who competed in the top national division, the SGB Premiership, had been at their track at the Blunsdon Abbey Stadium near Swindon since 1949. In 2020 they stopped racing due to the Covid-19 Pandemic and subsequently announced in 2022 that they would not be returning. Swindon Wildcats compete in the English Premier Ice Hockey League, the second tier of British ice hockey, and play their home games at Swindon's Link Centre.

Flags

Main article: Flag of Wiltshire

The flag designed to represent Wiltshire

A flag to represent Wiltshire, the "Bustard Flag", was approved by a full meeting of Wiltshire Council on 1 December 2009. It depicts in the centre a golden great bustard, which had been extinct in England since 1832 but is now the subject of a breeding programme on Salisbury Plain. It is surrounded by a green and white circle, representing the stone circles at Stonehenge and Avebury and also the six surrounding counties. The field consists of alternating green and white stripes, which reference the banner of arms of the council but also represent the chalk and grass of the county's downlands. The white can also represent peace, and the green joy, hope or safety. The flag has been registered in the flag registry of the vexillological charity the Flag Institute.

Notable settlements

See also: List of settlements in Wiltshire by population

Wiltshire has twenty-one towns and one city:

A bridge over the River Avon at Bradford-on-Avon

• Amesbury
• Bradford-on-Avon
• Calne
• Chippenham
• Corsham
• Cricklade
• Devizes
• Highworth (Borough of Swindon)
• Larkhill
• Ludgershall
• Malmesbury
• Marlborough
• Melksham
• Mere
• Royal Wootton Bassett
• Salisbury (city)
• Swindon (Borough of Swindon)
• Tidworth
• Trowbridge
• Warminster
• Westbury
• Wilton

A list of settlements is at List of places in Wiltshire.

Media

Local TV coverage is covered by BBC West and ITV West Country; however, Swindon and Salisbury receive BBC South and ITV Meridian.

The county's local radio stations are BBC Radio Wiltshire, Heart West, Greatest Hits Radio South West and Greatest Hits Radio South (covering Salisbury and surrounding areas).

County-wide local newspapers are the Gazette and Herald and Wiltshire Times.

Places of interest

The flight of 16 locks at Caen Hill on the Kennet and Avon Canal

Places of interest in Wiltshire include:

• Arc Theatre, at the Trowbridge campus of Wiltshire College
• Ashcombe House
• Avebury, Neolithic stone circle
• Avebury Manor and Garden
• Avon Valley Path
• Barbury Castle
• Bentley Wood
• Bowood House
• Caen Hill Locks, Devizes
• Castle Combe village
• Castle Hill, Mere
• Central Government War Headquarters, Corsham, underground nuclear bunker with accommodation for 4000
• Cherhill White Horse
• Chisbury Chapel
• Coate Water, East Swindon
• Corsham Court
• Cotswold Water Park
• The Courts Garden, Holt
• Crofton Pumping Station
• Edington Priory
• Fonthill Abbey
• Great Chalfield Manor
• Iford Manor and gardens
• Kennet and Avon Canal Museum, Devizes
• Kennet Avenue, Avebury
• King Alfred's Tower, Stourhead
• Lacock Abbey
• Lacock village, largely owned by the National Trust
• Littlecote House
• Longleat Safari Park
• Ludgershall Castle
• Lydiard Park & House, West Swindon
• Malmesbury Abbey
• Maud Heath's Causeway, near Chippenham
• Mompesson House, Salisbury
• Old Sarum, the site of the former cathedral
• Philipps House & Dinton Park
• Richard Jefferies Birthplace and Museum, near Swindon
• REME Museum
• River Thames
• Salisbury Cathedral
• The Salisbury Museum
• Science Museum library and archives, Wroughton
• Shearwater Lake
• Silbury Hill
• Stonehenge
• Stourhead
• Swindon and Cricklade Railway
• Swindon Steam Railway Museum
• Trafalgar House
• Wardour Castle
• West Kennet Long Barrow
• Westbury White Horse
• Westwood Manor
• Woodhenge
• Wilton House
• Wilton Windmill
• Wilts & Berks Canal
• Wiltshire Museum, Devizes
• Win Green Down

Areas of countryside in Wiltshire include:

• Cranborne Chase
• Marlborough Downs
• Salisbury Plain
• Vale of Pewsey

Transport

Road

Roads running through Wiltshire include The Ridgeway, an ancient route, and Roman roads the Fosse Way, London to Bath road and Ermin Way. National Cycle Route 4 and the Thames Path, a modern long distance footpath, run through the county.

Routes through Wiltshire include:

• A4 road
• M4 motorway / M4 Corridor
• A303 trunk road
• A350 road
• A417 road

Navigable inland waterways

• River Thames
• Kennet and Avon Canal

Canals subject to restoration

• Thames and Severn Canal
• North Wilts Canal
• Wilts & Berks Canal

Rail

Three main railway routes, all of which carry passenger traffic, cross Wiltshire.

• Great Western Main Line (Swindon and Chippenham)
• Wessex Main Line (Bradford-on-Avon, Melksham, Trowbridge, Westbury, Warminster, Salisbury; connects to Chippenham)
• West of England line (Salisbury and Tisbury)

Other routes include:

• Reading to Taunton Line
• Heart of Wessex Line
• Golden Valley Line
• South Wales Main Line

The major junction stations are Salisbury and Westbury, and important junctions are also found at Swindon, Chippenham and Trowbridge.

There is also the Swindon and Cricklade Railway in the Thames Valley.

In general, Wiltshire is well served by rail, with 14 stations within its boundaries, although towns not served include Calne, Marlborough and Devizes. Several destinations on bus routes, including the aforementioned three towns, have integrated through ticketing where one ticket may be bought to cover both the bus and rail journey.

Air

Airfields in Wiltshire include Old Sarum Airfield and Clench Common Airfield. RAF Lyneham was an air transport hub for British forces until its closure in 2012. Airports with scheduled services near Wiltshire include Bournemouth Airport, Bristol Airport, Cardiff Airport, Exeter Airport, Gloucestershire Airport, Oxford Airport, Heathrow Airport and Southampton Airport.

See also

• Custos Rotulorum of Wiltshire – Keepers of the Rolls
• Flag of Wiltshire
• Grade I listed buildings in Wiltshire
• Great West Way
• Healthcare in Wiltshire
• High Sheriff of Wiltshire
• List of civil parishes in Wiltshire
• List of Deputy Lieutenants of Wiltshire
• List of hills of Wiltshire
• List of Sites of Special Scientific Interest in Wiltshire
• Lord Lieutenant of Wiltshire
• The Vly be on the Turmut – unofficial song of the county
• Wiltshire (UK Parliament constituency)
• Wiltshire Horn, a breed of sheep

External links

• Wiltshire Council
  • Wiltshire Community History
• Wiltshire Tourist Office
• Images of Wiltshire at the English Heritage Archive, archived in 2012